How to Repaint a Model Train
16th May 2022
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No matter how careful you are with your trains, it's impossible to keep them in their optimal condition forever. Over time, your once shiny and new locomotive will start to look a little worse for wear if you don't update the paint job every now and then. Applying a fresh coat and some detail work is also a great way to give your model one of many specific aesthetics. Whether you want an aged, weathered, or rusted aesthetic, or just a change in color, there are some fairly simple techniques that any hobbyist can learn to get the most out of their models.
In almost every case, you can do quite a lot for your model trains with some simple acrylic paints. These can be applied in a variety of ways and are so simple that almost anyone should be able to handle it on their own without too much professional guidance. Of course, the more pros you watch and listen to, the better you'll be able to recreate the dazzling techniques that they pull on their locomotives to make them unique and even more fun.
If you want to really get into the nitty-gritty of scale locomotive repainting - as most model train engineers do - there are countless routes you can take. The first step is assessing what you're working with as far as models, what your goals are, and then figuring out what it'll take to get you there.
The first step is always gathering the right materials so you're setting yourself up for success. This also includes protective gear to make sure you're not inhaling dangerous fumes while you work. You'll want to consider whether you're doing brush painting or spray painting and if you're working on locomotives only or scenery as well. Ensure that you have a good place to work where you can get a little messy. If you don't have enough room or stability, you might want to move to a better surface.
In general, acrylics are the kinds of paint that you'll be working with. These offer the versatility of applications: you can brush it, spray it, and you can sometimes even find it in paint marker form for precision jobs. You can also find any number of finishes to give off the desired effect, so acrylics are going to be your best friend in this process.
Oftentimes, you can indeed get away with using simple car paint on your models. One of the huge draws of these highly common spray cans is that they come in every color imaginable. A can of car paint also comes with the reassurance that what you're buying has been authentically matched against professional samples, so you know exactly what you're getting every time.
As with plastic and other materials, you're still going to want to stick with acrylics for the diecast locomotives. With greater durability than the average enamel, a short drying process, and easy cleanup, you'll be happy with what you get from your acrylics. Do keep in mind though that these types of paints can layer quite thickly onto a surface, and a finishing coat is an absolute must.
Oftentimes, yes - if you're lucky, you might be able to find exactly what you need at your local supercenter. The crafting, hobby, and even automotive sections are usually well-stocked in a variety of these types of materials. However, they might not have the exact color or finish you need since there's nearly an infinity of varieties. Instead of just settling for what they have, it's always going to be a good idea to check online or at your local hobby store first so you can paint your models exactly the way you envision them.
Always take care to thoroughly clean any surfaces you'll be painting to eliminate dust and other particles. An extremely mild solution of soap and water is ideal for this job; anything stronger and you generally risk damaging the existing paint job, although this obviously doesn't matter as much in this case.
Whether it's enamel or acrylic, a Lionel or a Bachmann, there are several ways you can safely and effectively remove old paint from your models. 91% alcohol is usually a tenable solution. Start by soaking the shell for three to four hours, which is usually long enough for the paint to soften. It's important not to soak your trains for any longer than necessary as this can irreparably damage them. You can then use an old toothbrush or the like to easily remove the old coat. Other model engineers swear by paint stripper, which is surprising to some because it might seem intense, but it can really get the job done without doing any damage. Other commonly used paint removal remedies include brake fluid, lacquer thinner, pine cleaner, oven cleaner, and detergent mixed with boiling water - household items, at least one of which you might already have somewhere in your garage.
The decision of whether or not to sand really depends on the state of your locomotive and what your end goals are. This technique is ideal for eliminating scratches and scuffs, but it's not always necessary to do a full-blown sanding job, although it can sometimes be a way to ensure quality. Generally, you're not going to hurt anything by doing some light sanding.
The tendency with some hobbyists is to go overboard with this step. More is less with sanding. If you start to feel your arm or hand cramping up, it's probably time to take a step back and check if it's time to move on to the next step.
Krylon brand is a specialty plastic primer spray that you can't go wrong with. Their Ultraflat solution is a top pick for any job related to your model engines. Other great brands include Liquitex, Vallejo, Tamiya, and even Rust-Oleum, an automotive primer.
Model engineers in a hurry are sometimes tempted to skip out on the priming step; this is a big mistake every time. A good prime sets the rest of your job up for success. It doesn't take long, and you'll truly see the difference when you look at the end result on your models.
When you have the chance, it's definitely a good idea to paint first. The more you assemble the train, the harder it will be to get your paints in all those nooks and crannies. Once you've painted your unassembled model, you'll then want to give it ample time to dry completely so that you don't ruin all your hard work and have to start all over again.
When brushing, always make sure to apply the paint evenly. Start with a clean brush and don't overload it. Once you've gotten a feel for how the paint, brush, and surface of your model interact, you'll start to find a natural rhythm in your strokes; but until that happens, it's important to start off slowly and carefully.
The clear coat is what protects your decals, an essential part of what makes your trains unique and lifelike. Before applying, take a moment to ensure every decal is completely settled on the surface of the model. The tiniest air bubble can wreak havoc on your beloved trains.
With acrylics, you can utilize any number of painting styles like raking and fading. These can be used to achieve unique and truly realistic weathering and other effects.
You might wonder if you're cleaning your brush off properly when you go to use it and it's as stiff as a board. This might not come down to your brush hygiene, though. Sometimes a brush just needs to be broken in, and other times it will just get hard the more it's used. To put the swishy life back in your tools, a warm and soapy bath will usually do the trick. Just make sure to rinse it off thoroughly afterward.
Your detail work comes down to the tools that you use as much as it does your own skills. A quality detail brush is essential to achieve the effects that the pros get on their engines. These are available at any hobby store or even Walmart.
The best way to get rid of those pesky brushstrokes is by switching down to a thinner paint. If the paints you're using are so thick that they hold to the stroke, it's easy to diagnose and fix the problem. When you find yourself putting a single thick coat on, there are definitely going to be brushstrokes that result. You can also help out the evenness of your coat by always using brushes that are soft and long-bristled. When applying the paint, make sure to stroke in different directions and try to stay perpendicular to the existing coat of paint. If you finish painting and find there are still brushstrokes, it might be time to break out the sandpaper.
Nothing can destroy the effect of all your hard work and minute detail like a smudgy fingerprint. Keep your hands and fingers clear of the action until you are absolutely certain that everything has dried completely - unless you enjoyed the process so much that you want to do it again.
The cheeky answer would be: very carefully. The more helpful answer would be generally one of two ways: with a spray can or with an airbrush. Oftentimes, you can do everything you need with a spray can alone. Airbrushes are, however, incredibly useful and fun to work with, and many hobbyists consider theirs an essential tool.
As with enamels and other paints, there are countless varieties of spray paints that you can use on your models to create professional-quality effects or just a fresh coat. Whenever using a spray can always make sure to shake it up thoroughly to ensure an even color and evenly mixed materials. Hold the can upright about two inches from your model and spray uniformly across the surface. If you've never used a spray can on a model before, it's a good idea to practice on something you value a bit less before you go spraying away on your locomotive. Once you get the hang of it, it's a quick and easy process.
This is an essential tool for the serious model engineer. With an airbrush, you can ensure that you get every corner and crevice fully and evenly, and you can also create effects that would be impossible otherwise. While it might take some practice, using airbrush technique yields great results. Before spraying onto your model itself, you'll want to test out the paint on a piece of cardboard or something similar. Once you being spraying paint on your model, pay attention to when it starts to glisten. If you can see a shimmery gloss, it means the paint becoming wet, it's time to move on to the next area.
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