Every now and again, it's good to check on the power flow running through your model train system, and it's nice to not have to take your models into the hobby store every single time you need the job done. In most cases, it's something you can do from your own home with a few simple tools, and it's something that most model engineers who are serious about their craft will want to get familiarized with.

What voltage do model trains normally run on?

While the maximum voltage and ideal running power varies from model to model, there is some commonality between locomotives of the same scale. N-scale, as the smallest, takes the least amount of electricity with as low as 10 or 12 volts being ideal. G-scale, on the other hand, is quite a bit heavier of a load, needing 24 volts to operate smoothly, and HO-scale at 16 volts.

Can model train tracks shock you?

The good news is, if you're afraid of electrocution when working with your models, you can confidently put those fears to rest. Because of the low voltage that any of these tracks run on, no matter what scale they are, you'd have to have extremely sensitive skin to even feel a thing when you touch both rails of the track. Some people think that they feel something when they make contact, but this is usually just static electricity being discharged from their own body.

How can I check model train without track?

If you're lacking the rails when you want to perform your test, that's not a problem. You can simply connect your wires directly to the locomotive and get a reading that way. Alternatively, if you have one isolated piece of track but not a complete circuit, you can use a nine-volt battery, which should supply partial throttle to your model if it's functioning properly.

How do you check DCC track voltage?

Of the different methods to check your DCC - or digital command control - track voltage, the number one technique is measuring from rail to chassis ground. Start by measuring from rails A and B to your ground. Ignoring the positive or negative since this type of voltage has no polarity, add up the two values to find your DCC.

What voltage does DCC use?

12 volts is the minimum output required from boosters and command stations, maxing out at 22 volts. Always check that you're staying within the recommended range to ensure you're treating your locomotives with care.

DC or DCC for initial testing?

DCC is a must for complex layouts, especially ones with advanced features like smoke. It allows for maximum flexibility, making it the preferred choice of most hobbyists. DC can be usable for engineers on a budget with simple trainsets.

The battery test worked for this locomotive so why not the OO gauge model?

If you have multiple models running on the same track and you're getting different results, there can be a few different culprits behind your problems. These simple checkups can get you to the bottom of whatever's stopping your trains from getting enough power.

Check All Electrical Connections

The first thing you need to do when checking on your connection is to ensure that everything is tight with no loose ends hanging out. It's essential that you make sure the wires aren't touching at any point in the circuit. Go over every section of your electrical circuit, particularly at places like plugs and sockets, to ensure that there is a full, clean connection and there is nothing at risk of overheating nearby. Once you've carefully checked over your entire setup, you can start to look over all of your terminals and check the connections there. It's a common mistake to have wires running to your accessories rather than the tracks, and it's easy to guess what kind of a reading you'll get from your tracks then. You can save yourself hours of confusion, frustration, and wasted time - not to mention wasted electricity - by simply double-checking where you're sending all of that power to. Although it might seem like overkill, it's never a bad idea to check over your wires three, four, or five extra times. You can never be too safe. When looking over your wires, make sure that none of them have been frayed, split, or otherwise worn out. Although it may be tempting to try to get as much mileage as you can out of your materials, there comes a point where you need to update and replace if you want to continue to see your locomotives operating to their fullest potential.

Check the Power Supply

Testing your power supply will tell you if your connection is coming through or not. A short or bad connection is one where your system is not even getting enough power to begin with so there's no chance for it to operate at full capacity. When testing out the power supply, you can easily tell if there's a problem here by looking for a lack of a light activating on your testing device. It can be disheartening to find out that you're not even getting power to your set, but on the bright side, it means that you've potentially eliminated a number of other more detrimental problems - for now, at least.

Clean Track and Wheels

A clean train is a happy train, and the same goes for the tracks and the rest of the electrical system. When dealing with the parts where the wheels of the locomotive make contact with the tracks, it's especially important to inspect them regularly and give them a full cleaning treatment. This is an essential part of the electrical circuit just like the rest, and this is the part that has the greatest exposure to the elements - and even if you have an indoor setup, there can be quite a number of environmental factors at work on your trains. If you can visibly see dirt and buildup on your wheels or tracks, it is long past due for a cleaning. Even dust buildup that you can't usually see with the naked eye can have an adverse effect on your electrical connection and thus the power supply getting to your trains. It's a good idea to just make cleaning and maintaining these essential trainset components a part of your regular routine. Nothing makes a hobbyist feel closer to their models than sitting down and giving them a good cleaning. When doing this job, the serious model engineers stick with the specialty equipment. You can't go wrong with the cleaning blocks and cleaners that are available at most hobby stores or online. If you do choose to go with homemade equipment and materials, just make sure to check in on one of the thriving model train forum communities. If what you're about to do to your trains is going to damage them in any way, there's certainly an expert or experienced enthusiast who will steer you away from it. Above all, you should stay away from steel wool. This can irreversibly scratch and otherwise damage your tracks and wheels and make it impossible for the locomotive to ever ride smoothly ever again. In the worst-case scenarios, you might even end up with a train that won't run at all. It's best to do yourself a favor and leave the steel wool in the kitchen where it belongs.

Check the Locomotive

Some hobbyists love working out electrical problems, while others find them extremely vexing. Those who delight in them usually have a predisposition for puzzle-solving since that is a huge part of what electrical circuitry is. In order to find the source of the problem, you simply have to retrace where the power is coming from to where it's supposed to go, and in that way, it becomes like a maze or puzzle to solve. Love it or hate it, it's something that hobbyists everywhere have to deal with - unless they can afford to hire someone else to do it for them. Once you have checked your power supply, you can start navigating your way through this maze of wiring all the way to your locomotive. You can test your train directly and see if it's actually getting the appropriate amount of power or not. When you get good results here, it's a clear indicator that the problems are within the train. While this isn't the case every time, it's a fairly safe bet and a good avenue to pursue next.

Check the Track and Wires

As always, you should always start your wire check by double- and triple-checking that you're dealing with the wires that you want. Go over your wiring again to make sure that everything is connected as efficiently and securely as possible. It's important to note that rail joiners are only used for the mechanical connection components of your model train tracks so always be sure you are using them appropriately. If you're wondering why your electrical connection is spotty and all over the place and you're using nothing but rail joiners, you have your answer right there. These components are simply not designed for the job you're trying to use them for. The best way to improve an electrical circuit between your track and the power source is to do some soldering at every individual track piece. Once you have made sure that every piece is taken care of, you can then solder the other end of each drop that you've created onto the main buss. This should take care of any electrical problems you're facing if they are in the track wires themselves. It's always good to take the time to install as many drops as possible before you decide to test track power. It's a simple step that can help to ensure that you get the results you want on the first try.

Other Problems

Problems with Decoders

It's an increasingly common problem in the world of model trains that decoders aren't compatible with certain locomotives. With the variety of problems in this area, there are countless types of solutions. It's best to go to your local hobby store or check the online forums to see if any experts have broken down your particular problem. You'll commonly be dealing with what is known as a runaway locomotive, meaning you've lost control of when and how much power your train is receiving and it is thus a runaway.

FAQs

What voltage do Hornby trains run on?

When using Hornby controllers, their tracks run at 28.8 volts peak to peak. However, the track voltage that you'll get when you do your reading will be somewhere in the range of 12 to 15 volts AC when read with most meters.

Headlight Circuit Boards

In order to fully test the headlights, you'll often have to take apart an intricate circuit board system that it's connected to. Depending on the brand and scale of locomotive you're dealing with, this job might take minutes or hours. Some trains are definitely easier to get into than others. It's highly important to take care when performing these steps to avoid permanently damaging electrical parts that you'll end up having to completely replace.

Which is more dangerous, AC or DC, and why?

It might be shocking to some to hear that alternating current, or AC power, is five times as dangerous as DC, or direct current. The reason for this is the alternating current's frequency, which has profoundly dramatic adverse effects on the human body. The frightening truth is that even as small of a shock as 25 volts from alternating current is enough to kill someone. While both present dangers, if you're looking for safer options, DC is clearly the way to go.

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