How Model Train Wheels Work
16th May 2022
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Here's How! To properly love, appreciate, and care for your trains, it's essential to get to know how they work. The wheels are without a doubt one of the most crucial elements of a model train, being its connection to the tracks and thus the way that it gets its locomotion. Understanding what makes them work the way they do and how they keep your models running safely and smoothly can not only deepen your model engineer experience, but it can also help you make repairs and do maintenance jobs yourself. Read on to have your whole idea of train wheels "turned" on its head.
Let's start with the basics just to make sure we're all on the same page. There are some things that are helpful for beginners to learn first to gain a better understanding of the overall mechanics of the wheels, and even the most seasoned model engineers can sometimes do with a little reminding. One thing that all model train wheels have in common is the wide tread that they're built with. This allows them to ride securely on top of the rail without falling off. Each wheel also has a lip, more commonly called the flange, and this is the part that rests on the rail's interior. This design allows the wheels to be guided by the tracks themselves, essentially being steered by each curve, turn, and every other nuance in your layout.
Each one of your train's wheels is connected to another corresponding wheel on the other side by a metal axle. This type of connection - just like the axles on a real train or car - function to keep everything connected in a way that allows the wheels to spin but in a controlled and synchronous fashion. Contrary to popular belief, the wheels of a model train aren't perfect cylinders. In order to make the inside wide enough for them to work properly, they're built with a beveled design, meaning they're sloped on the edge rather than being perfectly straight. The upshot of this design is that when the train starts shifting left or right, as inevitably happens around curves, the wheels' diameters can change. However, thanks to the connection at the axle, both the connected wheels are kept spinning at exactly the same rate. This is the way that trains are able to handle those curves without flying off the tracks.
While it is perfectly natural for the wheels on your models to be a little warm to the touch if you put your hand on them directly after a vigorous run, wheels that are searing hot just after a casual ride is something to be concerned about. If you're getting excess heat to the wheels, this is a surefire indicator of a deeper problem within the locomotive, like gears that aren't working together properly or a jammed up motor. You'll definitely want to take the train apart for a full inspection to get to the root of the issue - or you can always take your model in to see the professionals if you're not 100% confident about taking care of the issue yourself.
As opposed to full-sized locomotives, which use an estimated 2 to 5 pounds of force per ton of train to move these beasts along a straight track, the power requirements for their scale model counterparts are much less dramatic. Model trains use DC power packs to get all the force they need to chug merrily along all your track. The controls on this power pack give you the direct ability to change the behavior of your models, anywhere from a dead stop to full steam ahead. The maximum voltage you'll want to work with from any power pack is 16 volts; some model engineers would even recommend as low as 12 volts for the smaller trains like N-scale, while others find the 16-volt HO power packs work perfectly well on these trains without causing any damage. It all depends on how much power you're comfortable exposing your models to.
If you're talking to real model train buffs and hope to work your way into their inner circles, you'll want to make sure you're using proper terminology. When model engineers - or real engineers, for that matter - are referring to both the axel and the wheels, they'll use the term "wheelset." This wheelset is held in place by something called a truck in North America, though in other parts of the world they're more likely to call it a bogie. This truck or bogie, whatever your preference, is a frame that can be found underneath both ends of every locomotive and railcar in your set.
It might be surprising to know that scale model locomotives are driven by and large by the very same mechanics that the real ones are. The main difference - as discussed earlier - is the fact that these tiny counterparts are working with much less energy than the big ones, which certainly makes sense when you consider the weight difference. Of course, most modern trains don't run on electrical energy the way that scale models do. However, the way that a locomotive hauls train cars around a railroad track is virtually identical no matter what size they are. Model trains get their energy from low-voltage electrical motors that are perfectly suited for the voltage they'll be dealing with to power the train. While one might run on diesel and the other might be these much smaller power sources in comparison, the end result is the same, meaning they're really not so different after all!
As briefly touched on above, each part of the train's wheels that make it distinct from the types of wheels used on other vehicles is essential in keeping it securely on the track. The lip is what rides the inside of the rail to keep everything securely moving along without slipping off, and the central groove further improves this overall stability. This groove is also a central component responsible for helping the wheels grip onto the track at all. This includes when the locomotive is turning and when going up and down inclines. Thanks to the sloped design of the wheels, they'll never slip as long as they're not put onto curves that are too sharp for the model to handle.
The resultant traction when your train is running on the track comes from the weight of the locomotive itself. On full-scale trains, this weight is obviously immense and generates plenty of friction between the metal of the wheels and track - enough to push its gargantuan bulk forward when the wheels start turning. The same applies to your models, but of course, much less friction is needed since they have much less mass.
A key part of getting any train run so smoothly and efficiently over the tracks is having as little wheel actually come into contact with that track as possible. On a real train, the amount of wheel touching the tracks at any given time is roughly the surface area of an American dime. While this might be disconcerting to think about the next time you're a passenger hurtling across the countryside, it's perfectly normal for the train's mechanics and essential in getting it to work properly. As for your models? You guessed it - the same applies to them! The surface area of your model's wheels that's physically touching the tracks is even smaller - a fraction of a millimeter, even. Making sure the flanges or any of the other parts of the wheelset aren't rubbing or otherwise not doing what they're supposed to be doing can often be the answer to all your train wheel troubles.
The most obvious way that wheel size impacts your models is it affects their speed. If you want your train to run faster, you might consider putting some bigger wheels on them. On the other hand, there are some brands or scales that aren't compatible with too big or too small of a wheelset, so you'll want to experiment with mixing and matching cautiously. When dealing with freight cars, you'll want to stick to the smaller wheels. You can sometimes find a brand that includes specialty freight cars that work well with big wheels, but they're definitely not the majority. Passenger cars, on the other hand, can handle much bigger wheels and, in fact, generally work better with the larger sizes.
As soon as you take a close inspection of your train's wheels even after just a few good runs, you'll probably start to notice a buildup of dirt and grime. It's tempting to think that this is due to neglect and that you need to start taking better care of your models right away, but you can breathe easy: Dirt and grime build up almost instantly on any model and nobody is going to come in and take your trains away due to neglect. But you should take this as a surefire indicator that it's time to give your wheels some love! It's easy to clean them with a paper towel, brass wire, and flex track, while other people prefer using a vice and sander combination. No matter which method you prefer, it's a good idea to work one of them into your regular model train routine, considering how quickly they can get dirty. A clean train is a happy train, and you'll definitely notice the difference in how well it runs right away.
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